Trip Report Burundi

Coffee Cupping Training
Bujumbura, Burundi.

Report made by Jeremy Raths, Coffee Corps volunteer.

We spent two days of training and two days of competition, September 18-22nd.
The enthusiasm for learning is matched by the problems within the coffee sector. For the competition we cupped 22 submitted samples. Of the 22 only one coffee scored an 85 or better. The problems are many but not insurmountable. We used the same tools and methods as in Rwanda.

The number one problem is potato. The prevalence of this major fault was found in a great many of the samples submitted for the competition. The mills have the equipment available for finding and eliminating this major fault. The expertise and the will power are obviously not available for eliminating this major fault. The expense incurred by checking correctly each and every bean by UV will easily be covered by the increase in revenues for providing true specialty coffees. At this point, Burundi provides no specialty grade coffees. The character of the coffee is masked by the overriding fault.

When this fault is eliminated then it will time to discuss the possibilities of providing traceability through out the coffee sector. Like most of Rwanda, the coffees are continually blended as they come through the system. From the farm to the washing station to the Sogestal and into the huge dry mills the coffees all flow together. There is no mechanism for keeping small lots separate. There is no aspect for direct purchases by roasters or importers by farm or washing station. Some coffees with fantastic characteristics are lost in the system.

The expertise and assistance that OCIBU provides is unknown at this time. I need to learn the exact services that they provide. The cuppers from OCIBU were enthusiastic and desired to learn. But their confidence needs to be lifted especially in regards to pointing out potato to the powers that be. No one can forget the taste of the fault. To get the Managing Director, the Economic Director, the mill Manager, especially the guy who calibrates the UV sorter to taste the fault would be of enormous value. The cuppers need to feel strong enough to make that phone call and ask, “Where is this coming from?” “Why is it not caught and eliminated by the UV sorter?” By making those folks taste the fault the required awareness will start to spread through out the Burundi coffee sector. Some pressure needs to be applied to the sector by the quality folks in the lab. The occurrence of the fault needs to be explored by all levels of management in a concerned manner. The fault is critical and needs to be met with critical reactions.

The idea of trying to market specialty grade coffees from Burundi needs to be reviewed. Until the potato is gone and characteristics unique to different coffees are identified it makes no sense to attempt to put coffees out for sale with the specialty label. The first attempt needs to be the best attempt. To attempt to sell coffees to the specialty market with the type of coffees submitted for the national competition would forever tarnish Burundi’s reputation in the specialty coffee world.

The premier language used during the training was French. Translations were cumbersome and distracting for me. For the students the use of French allowed a greater understanding of training. The limited English vocabulary created a deficiency in descriptors that does not necessarily match the sensory ability of the cupper. The cuppers who wrote in French were able to provide many more characteristics than the cuppers who attempted to use English. English is used in most of the coffee industry. For the cuppers in Burundi to explain their coffee to most of the world they do need to become able to use English. The understanding is there but the confidence needed to rely on their language skills needs to increase (and I surely know the lack of confidence using a second language). I became more able to follow the conversations in French. I was able to get the gist but of course I missed a lot.

The cuppers trained are committed to cupping more often. At the first of the course it was revealed that most people did not cup at all during the last year. To build up the cupping discipline requires a commitment to training, cupping and training some more. The students will need to share their expertise with others and create a core of Burundi coffee experts. They will need to cup often and with each other as much as possible. If they wait another year to become proficient dedicated cuppers the coffee sector will not have a quality conscience. The mills will continue to grade by size. The potato will not be detected at the mill and eliminated before it shows up on the cupping table. The coffee sector needs the cuppers.

I am excited by the prospects of great coffees coming out of Burundi. I look forward to the support and success of the coffee industry. By improving the overall quality of coffees, diminishing production on marginal lands, and developing a system to provide transparency the specialty markets could be well served. It will take a great effort and a change of process. But it could happen.