Or so it seems. It was gruelling in Honduras. But I did manage to get my Licensed Q Grader Certification. What does that mean. Hard to quantify but it sures give me credibility in the coffee world.
Twenty-Two tests designed to determine ability to discern coffee qualities. Aroma, taste, cupping, knowledge all tested fairly but with exacting determination. The best series was the triangulation tests. Three cups of coffee, two types. Pick the odd one. Great stuff.
Origins and processing varieties discovered in the cup. What a great way to evaluate abilities.
I recommend this activity for any and all folks interested in great coffees.
Yeah.
Another wonderful trip to this great country. Check out some photos from a stroll downtown. Liberation Day, 15 September.Some Photos, San Pedro Sula…no that is not tear gas.
More tomorrow.
Coffee Quality Institute
Final Report
Coffee Corps Assignment #261
Malawi
Volunteer: Jeremy Raths
Assignment: #261 DAI
Title: Roasting, Blending and Packaging
Location: Blantyre, Malawi
Mzuzu Coffee Planters Cooperative Union
Dates: July 14-24, 2008
Executive Summary
After reviewing the scope of work, I find that we had an amazing successful experience.
Provided through this assignment:
1. Onsite roasting training to both Mzuzu Coffee Planters Cooperative Union and members of the coffee community in the southern regions.
2. Detailed information regarding the Specialty Coffee Market in consuming countries.
3. Detailed information regarding the science of coffee brewing, paying close attention to adaptations for the Malawi market.
4. Marketing suggestions for the internal market, special attention paid to the institutional market.
5. Discussion with coffee producers regarding the enhancement of diversity within the Malawi coffee production.
6. Reaffirmation of the special qualities of Malawi coffee and the even greater success of market penetration with in Malawi and to roasters all over the world.
The overall message imparted is the stewardship each sector has for the previous sector along the coffee chain. Over, over, and over again I stressed the fact that the tremendous effort put forth by all members of the chain is completely wasted if the final link fails to care. The wait staff, the barista, and the counter help provide the final product to the end user. If they are not informed or do not care, it matters not what work has gone before them. It is up to the roasters, CAMAL, and MZCPCU to provide support to the managers, head chefs, and wait persons serving local coffees. To provide education and to impart passion for Malawi coffee becomes the mission of the entire coffee community. The goal to increase internal consumption rests on the conversion of all folks to the idea of Malawi coffee is very special.
Visits to Makandi Tea and Coffee Estates (July 16, 2008) and Satema Tea and Coffee (July 23, 2008) reaffirmed the impression of professional management practices on the estates. Both Lawrence Lawrence and Mark Gomani are bright lights in the Malawi coffee sector. The scientific approach they both share is applied to improving the production and post harvest handling of Malawi coffee.
They both are experimenting on the farms with special plots dedicated to providing a differentiation within their production. Good practices regarding mulching, limited pesticide and insecticide use are maintained on both estates. Separation of the cherry by plot, and varietal provides for an even great differentiation of finished green. Detailed data captured on both farms provides accountability and traceability. To a roaster like me the value of this work is greatly appreciated. To a coffee shop owner or at an institutional setting the ability to provide many different Malawi coffee experiences is of a great advantage. Diversity of coffee character provides a wider possibility of experiences.
Local roaster John Lord, CTL Food and Beverage, also is aware of the great possibilities for distinctive Malawi coffee based not on regions only, but within the estates and the cooperative. His value is to provide further differentiation based on roast development. But having choices of different green styles really gives him an advantage to provide for his customers a wide palate of flavours.
At the Mzuzu cooperative there is even a greater chance to develop and enhance the differences of coffee. To be successful at this venture a commitment to developing coffee roasting controls must be made.
Training Activities, Observations and Recommendations
Mzuzu Training
Three days in Mzuzu provided enough time to introduce the aspects of coffee roasting and brewing. The first two days were with the staff of MZCPCU. Bernard Kaunda was a genial and professional host. McDonald Jobe provided excellent assistance and feedback to help make the experience a success. The marketing and brewing were covered in detail. But the great success was the introduction of tools to provide the necessary control and reports for each and every roast.
The condition of the Probat 12k was noted and immediate solutions provided to restore the roastablity of the machine. A detailed list of priority changes needed was given to both Mr. Jobe and Mr. Kaunda. Until those changes are made the machine should not be used. The 25k Probat is in good shape. The suggested changes to it are under the aspect of a wish list. Not immediate but nice to have in the future. Both Mr. Jobe and Mr. Kaunda have those suggestions.
I introduced a very simple roast log to capture data for each and every round. We all cupped the results of each roast and made adjustments to the roast profile immediately. The third round on the 25k roaster attained the development level necessary for specialty coffee. This profile and report is now the road map for future roasts. Knowing that each and every roast has different variables to contend with, the main roaster person, Winfre Zimba, now has the understanding and ability to affect very minor changes within each roast. The habit of data capture will indicate the changes made and the results in the cup. I stressed the fact that a perfect cup is never attainable. But the constant striving for the perfect cup creates a wonderfully excellent product.
The third day of training involved a more generalized training for the coffee industry. The attendees were from both the producing sector and the hospitality sector. Connecting these two links provided a wonderful experience for folks to meet each other and understand their contributions to the coffee chain. The producers got to see those who are responsible for their hard work. The folks in the hospitality world got to see those who give them such wonderful Malawi coffees. The MZCPU members in attendance saw themselves as the connecting link to the two sectors. It was a very nice mix of attendees.
The focus of the presentation was on the brewing and presentation of coffee to the end user/consumer. A major discussion of brewing took place in the morning session. The SCAE class hand-out was used to present the 6 fundamentals to brewing. The science of brewing was presented. The aspect of measurable results was emphasized continually. Brewed coffee can be measured. Just like roasting, time and temperature are significant elements to be measured and controlled. Beyond those factors, water and grind are equally important. Finally the brewing equipment again creates another area for control. Extraction and strength were discussed.
The most important factor in brewing is the coffee to water ratio – sixty grams to one liter of water. I do not know how many times I pounded that home.
The afternoon was spent roasting coffee. All attendees were involved in the roasting, either recording data, calling out the time, calling out the temperature or calling out the sensual indicators. We then cupped the results. It was very fun and very informative for all involved. We achieved two very nice roasts, consistent with the results from the day before. The powerful presentation allowed three coffee community sectors to enjoy the development of coffee from inert green to flowered roasted excellence. Attendees from the producing sector and hospitality sector experienced a coffee roasting session for the first time. Very valuable for the understanding of what happens along the coffee chain. Very valuable – but the greater success was yet to come.
CAMAL Event
A one-day presentation to 19 members of the coffee community hosted by CAMAL brought on even a greater success. In addition to the coffee producers, coffee roasters, and institutional trade, we now included representatives from independent coffee shops. The growth of this sector will provide for a greater gain in jobs and value to the coffee community. Small shops owned by entrepreneurs will create great value to finished coffee products. Greater margins, greater expectations will raise up the entire coffee chain. Besides the wonderful presentation of coffee brewing detailed above, the presentation of marketing ideas was well received by the attendees. I shared a group of photos demonstrating the diversity of coffee shops in my home town which allowed for a genesis of ideas within the Malawi coffee shop sector. The demonstration of the diversity of coffee tastes and desires reaffirmed for the attendees the benefits of creating differences and enhancing those differences. The discussion of the prices that Cup of Excellence coffees are commanding excited all three sectors. Growers were affirmed regarding their experimentations. Roasters were affirmed regarding the margins available in the Specialty market. Hospitality and coffee shop folks were affirmed regarding the marketing value of Specialty Malawi coffees. It was a great morning with an even better afternoon to follow.
After a lunch we went to John Lord’s coffee roasting place. Carol and John were incredibly generous for sharing their space, equipment, expertise and time. We managed to produce two distinctive coffee tastes by adjusting the time by 40 seconds and affecting the temperature growth by a mere 1 degree. We demonstrated the amazing differences by filter brewing and serving to all attendees a bit of the coffee. All folks were amazed. The attendees once again were involved in data capture and observations. We had a lively group that discussed the necessity for roasters to maintain the data for reference as well as control.
All sectors agreed that the quality of coffee within the chain must be maintained by the diligence of the coffee roaster. Very few attendees had ever seen coffee roasted. The presentation, roasting exercise and the entire day opened up a lot of eyes within the Malawi coffee community.
A great product must be forever improved and forever protected. The brand must be defended in all sectors. The story of the “Mzuzu” instant at the Blantyre Airport speaks to the need for this vigorous defense. The constant affirmation that all sectors of the coffee community must support each other is needed.
Other Activities
Meetings in Lilongwe with USAID and the Deputy Ambassador gave us an opportunity to discuss the program and ongoing efforts within the Malawi coffee sector. Both men are coffee aficionados and see that a direct result of the program will be great coffee for their own enjoyment.
I had numerous handouts for all presentations. I also shared my email for folks who wanted further information. Shelix Munthas at Compass II has copies of all the documents.
I had a tremendous experience and I thank you, Shelix Munthash, for your very generous and kind support. Your enthusiasm for Malawi coffee is heightened. Now quit drinking that tea stuff. I enjoyed getting to know you and Lloyd. You two are quite the characters.
Thanks go to DAI, USAID, CAMAL, MZCPU, Compass II, Coffee Quality Institute and Coffee Corps for this wonderful opportunity. Great thanks to Bagie Sherchand for her inspiration and desire to enhance great coffee in Malawi.
Also, special thanks to fellow Coffee Corps volunteer Julio Martinez for his support and wonderful insights.
Jeremy Raths
31, July, 2008
Hard to believe. I have been home for a week now. Seems incredible. I have tons of photos. Just a few for you to enjoy. The trip was a huge success. Great fulfilment.
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Well. What a week. Cupping with 23 jury members from around the world. But the Europeans love sweet, cherry acidity. Lemons, oranges citrus is what they dig. I tend to go with the round attributes. Body, character and acidity all dancing together. The COE is a wonderful way to determine the best of origins. Check out www.cupofexcellence.org. The program brings cuppers to the origin to distinguish excellent coffees. Years of juries, and internet auctions has produced great coffees and wonderful prices. Farmers at the top of their craft get a nice return for their products. Truly fair trade. Honduran coffee farmers have shown that continual improvement in crop management will bring huge rewards. The Honduras name is rising to the top in the coffee world.
It is amazing to discover the significant differences in expectations.
The folks from Asia abhor acidity. Velvet smoothness is the number one attribute in their opinion.
Had a great session with the Probat. Made in 1987 this little 12 kilo roaster can hum. First round was the Esmeralda from Panama. A Giesha heirloom coffee.
I will report the cupping results tomorrow. It is spendy.
Enjoy the photos.
Wow. What a great few days. Got to see all my old buddies and make a ton of new friends. The theme was “Back to the Roots” and it was perfect for the laid back show we had here.
I am not sure about the final numbers of attendees, but I reckon 8,000 folks came to geek out on coffee. Specialty coffee that is.
Spending 15 hours at the US Barista Competiton reinforced the great regard I have for baristas.
Baristas are the missionaries, the promoters, the boosters of Specialty Coffee. They bring professionalism and passion to their trade. Hats off.
Coffee Cupping Training
Kigali, Rwanda
Report made by Jeremy Raths, Coffee Corps volunteer.
September 12, 2006 the training conducted on behalf of Eastern Africa Fine Coffee Association was started at OCIR, Kigali, Rwanda. Chris von Zastrow and I conducted the four days of activities. A day of set up was followed by two full days of intensive trainings. After an introduction given by the Director, Ephrem Niyonsaba we jumped into the schedule. Triangulation, matching pairs, and cupping to the SCAA cupping form were used to help the thirty students improve coffee cupping and evaluation. Sensory awareness was enhanced by smelling and tasting locally grown fruits. The training emphasis was place on the ability to repeat daily the exercises. By using home grown fruits, and simple tools we stressed the ease and the need of repeating these exercises. Cupping once a year will not improve the coffee in Rwanda. It will be seen if the advice is taken.
Identifying and developing the cupping judges for the national competition was a challenge. The natural abilities did not necessarily coincide with experience. Several cuppers had a great deal of experience but lacked sensory awareness. We selected five judges based on impressions gained during the trainings. Calibration with the SCAA form was the next goal. To get the five judges to be aware of scoring and ranking coffees was the basis of the remaining training.
The cupping of the samples submitted for the national competition was a great experience for myself and the five cuppers. The gap between the coffees submitted and the requirements of the specialty coffee industry could not have been demonstrated in a more clear fashion. Ordinary, non-descript, characterless, all describe the bulk of the samples. The serious faults of potato and iodine knocked several samples from the table.
As a coffee roaster I was disappointed by the samples submitted for competition. As an instructor I was able to continually enhance the notion that the coffees need to be evaluated along all parts of the coffee chain. It does no good to introduce coffees to the market with ordinary or even major fault characteristics. Rwanda wishes to continue to participate in the higher value specialty market. To make that leap the entire industry within Rwanda needs to be reaffirmed by continual cupping at all points.
Staffing requirements for the number of students (30) suggest the addition of one more volunteer member. Individuals in the large class were not given the necessary attention. The ability to coach individuals in a very individualized activity is hampered by the needs of the group.
Translation from English to Kimyarwanda and French and back again disrupted the flow of instruction. The people available for translation were inconsistent in style. This instructor lost rhythm several times. Next time I need to be able to comprehend the languages, at least in regards to coffee.
The water available for cupping was outside the recognized standards. Three hundred and fifty parts per million of dissolved solids is over twice the concentration recommended for coffee dilution. The OCIR lab should invest in coffee filters capable of diminishing the level of dissolved solids or bring in bottled water and add solids.
The light available in the cupping room was not at a sufficient level. Recommend that the ceiling be painted white.
The support staff was not able to be consistently available. Errands, help with set up, direction of other people, were all hampered by this. It is hard for folks to stop their usual activities to help with the training. But selecting one person and having that person available helps to make things run smoothly.
It is easy to come into a situation and see the needs. How to bring about, in a sensible fashion, with the minimum of resources the improvements all of us want is the real challenge. I am pleased to be a part of the training and the experience. I hope that by next year we will see cuppers emerge and demonstrate the passion and skills needed to help Rwanda coffees become better and better. We have seen what the market will pay. Now it is up to the industry in Rwanda to meet the needs and desires of specialty roasters world wide.
Coffee Cupping Training
Bujumbura, Burundi.
Report made by Jeremy Raths, Coffee Corps volunteer.
We spent two days of training and two days of competition, September 18-22nd.
The enthusiasm for learning is matched by the problems within the coffee sector. For the competition we cupped 22 submitted samples. Of the 22 only one coffee scored an 85 or better. The problems are many but not insurmountable. We used the same tools and methods as in Rwanda.
The number one problem is potato. The prevalence of this major fault was found in a great many of the samples submitted for the competition. The mills have the equipment available for finding and eliminating this major fault. The expertise and the will power are obviously not available for eliminating this major fault. The expense incurred by checking correctly each and every bean by UV will easily be covered by the increase in revenues for providing true specialty coffees. At this point, Burundi provides no specialty grade coffees. The character of the coffee is masked by the overriding fault.
When this fault is eliminated then it will time to discuss the possibilities of providing traceability through out the coffee sector. Like most of Rwanda, the coffees are continually blended as they come through the system. From the farm to the washing station to the Sogestal and into the huge dry mills the coffees all flow together. There is no mechanism for keeping small lots separate. There is no aspect for direct purchases by roasters or importers by farm or washing station. Some coffees with fantastic characteristics are lost in the system.
The expertise and assistance that OCIBU provides is unknown at this time. I need to learn the exact services that they provide. The cuppers from OCIBU were enthusiastic and desired to learn. But their confidence needs to be lifted especially in regards to pointing out potato to the powers that be. No one can forget the taste of the fault. To get the Managing Director, the Economic Director, the mill Manager, especially the guy who calibrates the UV sorter to taste the fault would be of enormous value. The cuppers need to feel strong enough to make that phone call and ask, “Where is this coming from?” “Why is it not caught and eliminated by the UV sorter?” By making those folks taste the fault the required awareness will start to spread through out the Burundi coffee sector. Some pressure needs to be applied to the sector by the quality folks in the lab. The occurrence of the fault needs to be explored by all levels of management in a concerned manner. The fault is critical and needs to be met with critical reactions.
The idea of trying to market specialty grade coffees from Burundi needs to be reviewed. Until the potato is gone and characteristics unique to different coffees are identified it makes no sense to attempt to put coffees out for sale with the specialty label. The first attempt needs to be the best attempt. To attempt to sell coffees to the specialty market with the type of coffees submitted for the national competition would forever tarnish Burundi’s reputation in the specialty coffee world.
The premier language used during the training was French. Translations were cumbersome and distracting for me. For the students the use of French allowed a greater understanding of training. The limited English vocabulary created a deficiency in descriptors that does not necessarily match the sensory ability of the cupper. The cuppers who wrote in French were able to provide many more characteristics than the cuppers who attempted to use English. English is used in most of the coffee industry. For the cuppers in Burundi to explain their coffee to most of the world they do need to become able to use English. The understanding is there but the confidence needed to rely on their language skills needs to increase (and I surely know the lack of confidence using a second language). I became more able to follow the conversations in French. I was able to get the gist but of course I missed a lot.
The cuppers trained are committed to cupping more often. At the first of the course it was revealed that most people did not cup at all during the last year. To build up the cupping discipline requires a commitment to training, cupping and training some more. The students will need to share their expertise with others and create a core of Burundi coffee experts. They will need to cup often and with each other as much as possible. If they wait another year to become proficient dedicated cuppers the coffee sector will not have a quality conscience. The mills will continue to grade by size. The potato will not be detected at the mill and eliminated before it shows up on the cupping table. The coffee sector needs the cuppers.
I am excited by the prospects of great coffees coming out of Burundi. I look forward to the support and success of the coffee industry. By improving the overall quality of coffees, diminishing production on marginal lands, and developing a system to provide transparency the specialty markets could be well served. It will take a great effort and a change of process. But it could happen.
Take a peek at two reports for volunteer work with Coffee Corps.
I will continue to post more reports.
For information regarding Coffee Corps check out www.coffeeinstitute.org.
Great stuff.
Night and Day.
Uganda and Kenya.
Report Jeremy Raths, January 11th to January 30th, 2007.
On behalf of CQI, Coffee Corps, and EAFCA.
A definite tale of two countries. It was the best of times and the worst of times. Uganda was a dark, dreary experience. Kenya was light, thrilling, and comforting.
In Kampala Bob Stephenson, Chris Van Zastrow and I found incompetence, defensiveness, defeatism, and a total lack of welcome. The Uganda Coffee Development Association was to be the host of the training and the competition. The training site was a disaster. The small sample roaster was inadequate for the amount of coffee we needed to roast. The lack of staff assigned to us was beyond inadequate. The room provided for the cuppings and meetings was entirely too small. The class size was increased at the last minute and several additional students added. The absence of the manager for the UCDA was very apparent. But the amazing thing was that the very day we started to train over thirty students the manager, Doreen, decided to get a sink repaired. We did not have water or toilets for the entire four days. The lack of water caused us to diminish the cuppings. We had a total of three cuppings for the entire training. The lack of toilets caused the obvious problems.
The students for the most part represented employees from the commercial coffee sector. Their allegiance to the UGDA created an ongoing defense of Robusta in particular and the commercial sector in general. The discussions drifted to ways to improve the processing of Robusta coffees to attain specialty status and fetch higher prices. Both Bob and I continually disappointed these folks by continually suggesting that trees be torn out and new plantings on proper sites be made. The UGDA adherents were not happy with the suggestions. To see grown folks pout, smell toilets backing up, and be jammed into a tiny space created many distractions. I would never recommend a return to Uganda if the UCDA is involved in any way.
Kenya was a superb example of an extraordinary training experience. The training site was a farmhouse on a coffee planting. Light, airy, roomy, a perfect place to hold such a training. Many students were from the emerging specialty coffee companies. They demonstrated the passion that we take for granted in our industry. In spite of a few old guard commercial folks the discussions were spirited, in depth and very satisfying. The cuppings were treated with professional attitudes. The conversations during break times bounced along the themes of better coffee, better coffee people make better coffee companies.
The host of the event, SOCINAF, was the best possible choice. Competent staff anticipated our every need. Supplies, water, electricity, lighting, great meals were all provided in abundance. Assigned folks were always present and pleased to be there. The roasting equipment was adjusted by Bob and myself and handed over to a very competent roaster. All the samples for the class cuppings as well as all 32 samples for the competition were done in an expert fashion. We could focus on the classes knowing that the samples would all be done well. The classes were a great success.
The competition was held at Roure Country Club. The excitement generated by the cupping was matched by the onsite coffee fair. Huge tents held exhibits from coffee agricultural equipment providers, coffee roasting companies, insect control devices, insurance firms and financial organizations. Estates, farms and cooperatives were also represented. It was great to see the enthusiasm and professionalism demonstrated at the fair.
The samples provided for the competition were captured during the early part of the harvest for Kenya. Many, many of the samples did not demonstrate the classic well balanced characteristic inherent in great Kenya coffees. The timing of the harvest and the EAFCA conference in February created the situation. Several coffees managed to score high marks. The coffee club was a huge success. Once again SOCINAF and the Kenya chapter of EAFCA shined. An entire computer set up with internet access was awarded to the company that submitted the winning sample. The winner was Coffee Research Federation. Great coffee. Another entire computer set up was given to a coop that demonstrated the greatest quality improvement. The computer set ups are a great practical reward for a job well done.
Send me back to Kenya anytime.
It was a great pleasure to work with Mr. Bob Stephenson. His knowledge of the coffee industry is only matched by his love of coffee. I gained so much working by his side. My feelings for Mr. Chris von Zastrow continue to grow. I admire his organization, leadership, and perseverance. I value our friendship.
Send me anywhere with those two guys.
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